As the Irish mercenary who helped William Wallace in the movie, “Braveheart” said, “It’s my island.” In a similar respect, Sears Island is my island, and it’s your island. In fact, it’s our island.
As a hiking destination, Sears Island has several things to recommend it. First, it has a varied geography. From seashore to forest, field and fen, it is representative of the best of what Maine has to offer. And since it is an island, getting hopelessly lost is virtually impossible. Yet, in its yet-undeveloped state, the island is wild and holds the same challenges that any other wild place does.
While there are no marked trails, as such, there are several paths that are easy to follow, as well as many other options for cross-country walking and bushwhacking. One route in particular has become my favorite over the years. This incorporates both a seashore walk and a hike through the island’s interior. So follow me in a guided tour of Maine’s own, wild island. Total elapsed time for this hike is from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, depending upon ability and also, time spent looking and enjoying the scenery.
From Searsport, drive north on Route 1 for about 1.6 miles, and turn right on Sears Island Road, marked by a low, green building on the right. Drive about 1 mile to the end of the causeway and park.
Next, looking at the island, walk carefully (there is no formal path down to the shore, and access is made difficult by a wire fence) down to the shore on the left (east) side of the island. Walk up the shore approximately 100 yards to a large apple tree on the right. Look for a narrow path leading inland, just to the right of the tree. This is the trailhead.
From here, the path winds through rather thick brush, but take heart, because it soon opens to a wider lane, with a slight uphill grade. Now, you walk past a stone fence on the left, and the brush gives way to ancient, red oaks. Cool and shady is the theme here, and 10 to 15 minutes later, the trail levels out and leads to a field. Look on the immediate left of the trail for some large, flat stones. These cover an old well. Drop a pebble (or a penny) in through cracks in the stone, and listen for the splash.
The trail is still quite obvious as it bears right through the field. See an old foundation on the right. Continue on the trail, now narrow, as it goes through more shrubbery. Soon, it opens up and there is a small pine grove on the left. Just past this, the trail comes to a Tee. Elaborate stone fences line the road here. Go left on this now-wide, gravel road. This parallels the paved road that begins at the gate on the causeway and debouches at a stone jetty. But for our hike, we will stay on the gravel road.
After 10 minutes or so of walking (times here are approximate. I am a fast walker, and others will want to take more time and go slower) the trail leads to a large field on the left. Here, are huge stands of northern bayberry. These are fragrant to the extreme. In late summer, the “berries,” really nutlets, turn blue and exude a waxy substance when rendered. This is what early colonists used to make bayberry candles.
After the field, the gravel road/trail goes gently uphill (this is one of the higher points on the island), through a spruce/fir forest. The aroma of spruce gum wafts along on the gentle breezes. Soon, the trail passes a small wet area with a few cattails. This is a “mitigation” wetland, and a sign describes it as an, “Environmental Restoration Area.”
Shortly past the wetland, the trail goes through a metal gate (always open). Look for the large, lettuce-like leaves of skunk cabbage along the trail here. After the gate, the trail descends, and the hiker gets a first view of the electronic communications tower and also, Penobscot Bay.
Walk down to the fence that surrounds the tower, and look for an obvious trail to the left. At this point, if it is at all windy, you should hear the clanging of a bell buoy out in the bay. Follow this narrow trail through a damp area and into an open spruce/fir woods. Keep going toward the water. The trail ends atop a fairly steep bank. Use caution descending the bank. When finally on the shore, stop and look straight out across the water. This is a rather unique view of Turtle Head, on the northern tip of Islesboro. A quick look on any map puts this into perspective.
Now the hike takes on a different feel. From here on, it winds along the beach. Well, beach is stretching the term a bit. The shore is rocky, with little sand or gravel except for directly along the high-tide line. Anyway, after gazing out on the bay, head right (north) and follow the shore. It helps, of course, if the tide is low.
Keep going, and look along the shore for upturned shale. This bespeaks of a long-ago, dramatic upheaval of the earth. Also mixed in with the rocks, are bits of Kineo flint, or rhyolite. The last glacier to pass this way deposited this waxy-gray flint along the shore of Penobscot Bay. Native Americans soon began using it for tool and weapons making. Pieces of this are often seen on the shore, with obvious facets from being “worked” by early humans.
Walking along the shore, you may find tidal pools. These are filled with all kinds of tiny, marine creatures. It is great fun for kids of all ages to explore these natural treasures.
Keep going along the shore, and soon you will see the rock jetty mentioned earlier. Here, it’s time to decide whether to continue back to the causeway by walking along the shore, or whether to take the paved road back. The road ends at the jetty, and it’s easy walking back to the causeway. For me, the shore is the best option. However, if the tide is high, this can be difficult because of a tidal stream halfway between here and the causeway. It is possible, though, to circumvent the stream by going inland for a short distance. Several access points are available to do this.
Whichever way you choose, the end of the hike happens upon reaching the causeway. It is also possible to walk around the entire shoreline, but the tide must cooperate. By beginning on an outflowing tide, the walk can be accomplished relatively dry shod.
On my recent visit, I was alone on the island. Except for some faint tracks, there were little signs of human presence. For an easily accessible island in busy mid-coast Maine, this is truly remarkable. I highly recommend a hike on, around or through Sears Island, the island that belongs to the people of Maine.
|