The well-maintained Corridor trails (Bright Angel and the South and North Kaibab paths) are the main arteries across the Grand Canyon in Arizona. No permits are needed for day hikes; one is required for overnight use of the back country (928-638-7950; $20 for the permit, plus $4 per person), though Phantom Ranch guests don't need one. Hiking is permitted year-round, though North Rim facilities are generally closed from mid-October to mid-May.

Depending on whether they start from the North or South rim, most hikers fly into either Las Vegas, Phoenix or Flagstaff, Ariz., and rent a car. The entrance fee to the park is $25 per car.

There are plenty of choices both inside and outside the park on the South Rim, but if you're going in peak season, plan well in advance. Our party of four stayed on the South Rim in a cabin at the park's Bright Angel Lodge, where connecting rooms included TVs, ceiling fans and fridges. On the North Rim, the only in-park choice besides camping is the lovely Grand Canyon Lodge; our two-room cabin had a shared bath, comfortable beds and little else.

Guests at Phantom Ranch, at the base of the canyon, stay in either cabins (included in overnight mule trips) or the men's and women's dorms. Children are welcome in the dorms, which have five sets of bunk beds and a shared bath. They're primitive but well air-conditioned and the beds are comfortable.

Reservations for South Rim and Phantom Ranch: 888-297-2757 or www.grandcanyonlodges.com; for North Rim, 877-386-4383 or www.grandcanyonlodgenorth.com.

While there are restaurants and snack bars on both rims, there's only one place to nosh at Phantom Ranch, and you must reserve before you arrive. All meals are all-you-can-eat and family-style, including iced tea; save room for the great slabs o' chocolate cake.